New & Notable Restaurants in San Francisco

One of the nice perks of writing about food is being invited to restaurants and even getting to preview ones that have not yet opened. While busy writing the cookbook I have taken some breaks to see what's going on around town. Here are some highlights:

Hog Island Oyster Co. Bar has long been one of my favorite little hideaways at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza. Tucked away in an awkward spot, it had fantastic views of the Bay Bridge and soul soothing clam chowder, not to mention an always stellar range of oysters on the half shell. The space is certainly not awkward any longer. Now that the oyster bar has taken over the adjacent spot, it�s a spacious and nicely unified expanse with two bars and plenty of outdoor seating. The menu is larger too. My picks are still the classic clam chowder that has no flour so it�s rich and creamy, not goopy, and the white anchovies. Served with piquillo pepper aioli, chopped eggs and green herb sauce on baguette slices, the anchovies are are bright and juicy, nothing like what you get out of a can. In case you didn't know, Hog Island was founded by two marine biologists who are passionate about the future of sustainable seafood.

San Francisco Ferry Building, #11A, San Francisco 

Originally founded in 1893, Schroeder�s was long overdue for an overhaul. The German style beer hall has a brighter, cleaner, more sophisticated look and also a much greater emphasis on food. Chef Manfred Wrembel has German parents but grew up in California so he has a lighter touch with the more traditionally heavy cuisine. At a recent preview my favorite dishes were the delicate beef tongue, sliced paper thin and served with capers, radishes and creme fraiche and the beet salad with crisp thin pumpernickel wafers and goat cheese; a very refined version of what�s become a classic salad. 

240 Front St. San Francisco

Chino is one of the newest restaurants in town, it opened just this week. It was inspired by owner Joe Hargrave�s love of Chinese dumplings and cocktails and desire to enjoy them together. I tried several dishes and the dumplings were superb. They should be, they hired a veteran dumpling maker previously at The Mandarin. The gingery chicken dumpling was my favorite. I also loved the rich and sticky pork tamarind hoisin riblets and the super tangy and crisp chicken wings a recipe from Nick Balla, currently the chef at Bar Tartine, from when he was cooking Asian food. 

3198 16th St, San Francisco

Last but not least, a restaurant that has not yet opened, Pabu is a collaboration between Michael Mina and Ken Tominaga who is known for his much acclaimed sushi spot Hana in Rohnert Park (he also previously worked with Cindy Pawlcyn at Go Fish in Napa). The restaurant will be opening up in the old Atrium space at 101 California Street. The preview pop-up just had a few nibbles, but the Happy Spoon is reason enough to check it out. It�s basically some of the tastiest things all combined�a raw oyster, salmon roe, Santa Barbara sea urchin, tobiko and a ponzu creme fraiche. This is a tried and true dish from Pabu in Baltimore, and sure to make a splash here as well. 

101 California St. San Francisco 

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The Chinese Lady�s A Pot of Rice to the Wonders of Wonton

I can�t remember exactly when I met my friend Lorraine aka "the Chinese Lady"  cooking personality of YouTube fame, but I can tell you she is the zing of hot sauce on your plate! Even when faced with obstacles she has an infectious joie de vivre and she positively bubbles with enthusiasm, especially when she talks about food and family. Needless to say, I was charmed by her right away. She shared with me her dream of writing a cookbook so she could share her treasured won ton recipes and stories from her childhood in Hawaii and life in San Francisco, Hollywood and beyond. She asked if I would test some recipes for her and I said yes. 

I provided my detailed feedback on Lorraine�s recipes, but really, they were all delicious and worthy of making it into her book. Some of her recipes are very traditional with pork or shrimp and others are her own inventions. Two of my favorites were her Shrimp & Lime Wontons with tangy kaffir lime, galangal and lime juice and also the Snapper�s Bag, a beggar�s purse style dumpling with snapper served in soup flavored  with ginger, star anise and red onion. 

The Chinese Lady�s A Pot of Rice to the Wonders of Wonton is now available on the ibook store. It�s a gorgeous book, thanks to beautiful photos and tech wizardry from Lorraine�s talented friend and business partner, Josimar. Some features of the book that I particularly like are the embedded videos that show you exactly how to fold wontons in 6 different styles, and Lorraine�s wonderfully told personal stories. But most of all I look forward to trying even more of her wonton recipes. 

The book is available for iPad and Kindle on the itunes store for $4.99 but you can also download a free sample to check it out before you buy so I do hope you'll check it out! 

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Bite-sized Bakewell Tarts

Apparently, there is a fair amount of controversy surrounding the recipe for Bakewell tart.  Those interested in it's historical origins will enjoy Ivan Day's "Some Early Bakewell Pudding Recipes" and for a comparison of recipe components, I enjoyed Felicity Cloake's piece in the Guardian (I used her frangipane recipe here).  For me, however, Bakewell tart is the one my Gran lovingly made for Sunday lunch.  And the taste (if not the form) of these bite-sized Bakewells took me back to those sunny and rainy Sunday afternoon visits of childhood, like a Proustian madelaine. 

Of course, it started with those incredibly simple jam tarts from last weekend, which reminded me of my Gran's Bakewell tart, and inspired this little baking jaunt down memory lane. The extra work to make the super light frangipane (the cakey top part of these tarts made with ground almonds) is undeniably worthwhile. The perfect combination of crisp pastry, sweet jam, and light cake will have you closing your eyes to savor every bite.  For the ultimate indulgence, serve with heavy cream.

Bite-sized Bakewell Tarts:

8 oz flour

4 oz butter (I used salted)

4-5 TBS water

Strawberry jam (or raspberry or apricot)

4 oz butter (slightly softened - I used salted)

4 oz sugar

2 eggs

4 oz almond flour/meal (blanched, ground almonds - I used  Bob's Red Mill brand)

1 oz flour

1/2 tsp baking powder

zest of 1 lemon

Preheat the oven to 375 F degrees.

Sieve 8 oz plain flour into a large bowl and cut 4 oz butter, straight from the fridge, into little cubes.  Toss the butter cubes into the flour and use your finger tips to rub the butter into the flour, breaking down the butter with the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs.  Add 4 TBS cold water and press into a dough, adding an additional 1 TBS water (or more if needed) to bring the dough together.  Press dough into a flat round, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill in the fridge for 15-30 minutes.

While the pastry dough is chilling, make the frangipane.  With a mixer, cream together the slightly softened butter and sugar.  Add the 2 eggs and beat until well combined.  Add the almond flour, flour, and baking powder and beat until well combined.  Stir in the lemon zest. 

Lightly grease the cups of a mini muffin tin (24 count). On a floured board, roll out the pastry dough thinly (about 1/8"). Using a fluted 3" round cutter, cut out 24 rounds and press gently into the mini muffin cups.  Cover the bottom of each pastry cup with jam and cover the jam with the frangipane, almost to the top of the pastry cup.  Smooth out the top with the back of a spoon.

Bake for 25 minutes, until the tops of the Bakewells are a warm light brown.  Enjoy with a nice cup of tea!

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